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<title>PhotoBert Forum - Recent Posts</title>
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<pubDate>Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:00:25 GMT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:00:25 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[My cheat sheets arrived today.  Thanks for supplying such a worthwhile camera accessory.  The sheets fit perfectly in my camera bag.<br/>  D.<br/>  <strong>Dianne Daw</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>That is a beautiful picture of the Eiffel Tower! Thanks for sharing. After seeing your picture I am definately going to download the software from Arcsoft. <br/>D. <br/><br/><strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>Don't click on "Attach Files" - that's if YOU want to attach a file to your forum post. A small image of the Eiffel Tower is shown in my earlier post. You can also see it here: <a href="http://www.photobert.com/galleryfiles/Landscapes2/3_Paris_037_EiffelPano.jpg" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.photobert.com/galleryfiles/Landscapes2/3_Paris_037_EiffelPano.jpg</a> <br/>bert</div></div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:00:25 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[That is a beautiful picture of the Eiffel Tower!  Thanks for sharing. After seeing your picture I am definately going to download the software from Arcsoft.<br/>  D.<br/>   <br/>  <strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>Don't click on "Attach Files" - that's if YOU want to attach a file to your forum post. A small image of the Eiffel Tower is shown in my earlier post. You can also see it here: <a href="http://www.photobert.com/galleryfiles/Landscapes2/3_Paris_037_EiffelPano.jpg" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.photobert.com/galleryfiles/Landscapes2/3_Paris_037_EiffelPano.jpg</a> <br/>bert</div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 19:21:16 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[Don't click on "Attach Files" - that's if YOU want to attach a file to your forum post. A small image of the Eiffel Tower is shown in my earlier post. You can also see it here: <a href="http://www.photobert.com/galleryfiles/Landscapes2/3_Paris_037_EiffelPano.jpg" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.photobert.com/galleryfiles/Landscapes2/3_Paris_037_EiffelPano.jpg</a> <br/>bert]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 18:12:08 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[when I click on the "attach files" the browse box opens, where is the attached file?  Sorry, I am new to forums but I would really like to see the Eiffel Tower.<br/>  D<br/>  <strong>Dianne Daw</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote><strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>try it now - the Eiffel tower was taken with 5 horizontal images that were stiched together.</div></div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:57:15 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[<strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>try it now - the Eiffel tower was taken with 5 horizontal images that were stiched together.</div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:55:02 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[try it now - the Eiffel tower was taken with 5 horizontal images that were stiched together.]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:28:16 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=37</link>
<title>Topic &quot;How ISO Speed affects your images&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[I am going to learn how to operate my Canon Rebel t3i manually which means that I will be setting the Fstops, Shutter Speed, ISO.  Have I got this right?  Is there any easy formula for manual shots? <br/>  D.]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:03:49 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[How do I open the attachment?<br/>   <br/>  quote=Bert Sirkin]I prefer to use no filter for normal pictures. I know that a lot of people have a philosophy of using a 1A or UV filter on their lens at all times, but I don't. For some unknown reason, filters get a LOT dirtier than lenses, and can degrade images significantly - especially "cheap" filters (consider a filter "cheap" if it isn't multi-coated - which usually costs $70 or more). I've trashed many a camera (it hurts to think about what I've done to my cameras!), but I've never damaged the glass on a lens. Your mileage may vary, but I don't recommend using a UV or 1A filter - unless at high-altitude, where a UV filter can cut the "blue". <br/><br/>BTW, here's a vertical panorama:</div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 16:53:43 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[I prefer to use no filter for normal pictures.  I know that a lot of people have a philosophy of using a 1A or UV filter on their lens at all times, but I don't. For some unknown reason, filters get a LOT dirtier than lenses, and can degrade images significantly - especially "cheap" filters (consider a filter "cheap" if it isn't multi-coated - which usually costs $70 or more). I've trashed many a camera (it hurts to think about what I've done to my cameras!), but I've never damaged the glass on a lens. Your mileage may vary, but I don't recommend using a UV or 1A filter - unless at high-altitude, where a UV filter can cut the "blue".<br/> <br/>BTW, here's a vertical panorama:<br/><em>edited by admin on 4/17/2012</em>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 15:45:57 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[Bert, that is a fantastic photo.  I think I would like to try that!<br/>  D.<br/>  <strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>I've tried lots of panorama software, but none has ever worked as well as Arcsoft's (<a href="http://www.arcsoft.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">www.arcsoft.com</a>) Panorama Maker Plus (we have no relationship with Arcsoft!). <br/><br/>We've broken ALL the rules of panoramas (manual exposure, tripod, etc) and, as long as we stayed relatively level, were able to get amazing panoramas every time we've tried. <br/><br/>Here's one we stitched together from 5 vertical images of Keys Ranch in Joshua Tree National Park. <br/><br/>bert</div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 15:36:08 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[<strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>I don't use anything like the Hoodman - I find the're a bit cumbersome and don't find that they really help that much. <br/><br/>bert</div> <br/>  Good to know because they are very expensive.  Questions please:  I have a Hoya UV filter on my lens for protection against dust, scratches, etc.  I also have a polarizing filter.  Can I just screw the polarizing filter right to the UV filter? Or should I remove the UV?  <br/>  Thanks for sharing all your knowledeg.<br/>  D]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 15:33:55 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[I don't use anything like the Hoodman - I find the're a bit cumbersome and don't find that they really help that much. <br/> <br/>bert]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:39:16 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[Thanks Bert for the website info.  Do you use a Hoodman HoodLoupe?  They look interesting  and would probably be an asset on a bright day but the cost is a little steep, $80.00US.  Do you know of anyone who has made one of these at home?<br/>  D<br/>   <br/>  <strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>The Bay of Fundy has one of the highest tides in the world. When it comes in, it comes in VERY fast - and can approach a 50-foot wall of water that "bores" into the tidal basin. Check out this site for more information: <a href="http://www.bayoffundytourism.com/faqs/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.bayoffundytourism.com/faqs/</a> <br/><br/>bert</div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 13:55:53 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[The Bay of Fundy has one of the highest tides in the world. When it comes in, it comes in VERY fast - and can approach a 50-foot wall of water that "bores" into the tidal basin. Check out this site for more information: <a href="http://www.bayoffundytourism.com/faqs/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.bayoffundytourism.com/faqs/</a> <br/> <br/>bert]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 12:10:48 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[Thanks Bert, what is a bore tide?<br/>  Sweetpea<br/>   <br/>  <strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote><strong>Dianne Daw</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>I am going to visit New Brunswick in May. I have just bought a Canon Rebel T3i and a tripod. I am going to take some panorama shots of the Bay of Fundy. Any advice? <br/>Thanks, Sweetpea</div> <br/><br/>A couple of suggestions: <br/>1) Consider shooting the panorama vertically (i.e., portrait). When you do this, you get a more "rectangular" image. <br/>2) Use a bubble level to make sure the camera is level on the tripod. If it's not level, the panorama will skew up or down. <br/>3) shoot with manual exposure. Parts of the image will be brighter and parts will be darker - so you need to use an "average" exposure and shoot in manual exposure mode. That way when you stitch the images together, they won't have any "dark to light" areas. <br/>FWIW, I often shoot panoramas hand-held. It's not as good as with a tripod, where you can set it up correctly, but if you keep the camera relatively level, it can work nicely. <br/>Have fun and try to catch a glimpse of the bore tide if you can! <br/>bert</div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 11:52:37 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[<strong>Dianne Daw</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>I am going to visit New Brunswick in May.  I have just bought a Canon Rebel T3i and a tripod.  I am going to take some panorama shots of the Bay of Fundy.  Any advice?  <br/>  Thanks, Sweetpea</div><br/><br/>A couple of suggestions:<br/>1) Consider shooting the panorama vertically (i.e., portrait).  When you do this, you get a more "rectangular" image.<br/>2) Use a bubble level to make sure the camera is level on the tripod. If it's not level, the panorama will skew up or down.<br/>3) shoot with manual exposure. Parts of the image will be brighter and parts will be darker - so you need to use an "average" exposure and shoot in manual exposure mode. That way when you stitch the images together, they won't have any "dark to light" areas.<br/>FWIW, I often shoot panoramas hand-held. It's not as good as with a tripod, where you can set it up correctly, but if you keep the camera relatively level, it can work nicely. <br/>Have fun and try to catch a glimpse of the bore tide if you can!<br/>bert]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 00:32:07 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=12</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My favorite panorama software&quot; a message from Sweetpea</title>
<description><![CDATA[I am going to visit New Brunswick in May.  I have just bought a Canon Rebel T3i and a tripod.  I am going to take some panorama shots of the Bay of Fundy.  Any advice?  <br/>  Thanks, Sweetpea]]></description>
<pubDate>Sat, 14 Apr 2012 23:55:17 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=11</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My 3 Favorite Places in the US&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[<strong>Lucee</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>HI Bert, Just wanted to drop in and let you know how much I like the CheatSheet I just got from you.  It's a great help for learning a new camera...didn't know where to post this... is there a 'getting acquainted' forum?   Can we post photos?   If so, how?</div><br/>Glad you like the CheatSheet! <br/>Unfortunately, there's no "getting acquainted" forum.  You can attach small files by clicking the "attach files" link just below the area where you type your message.<br/><br/>best regards,<br/>bert]]></description>
<pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2011 07:01:59 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=11</link>
<title>Topic &quot;My 3 Favorite Places in the US&quot; a message from Lucee</title>
<description><![CDATA[HI Bert, Just wanted to drop in and let you know how much I like the CheatSheet I just got from you.  It's a great help for learning a new camera...didn't know where to post this... is there a 'getting acquainted' forum?   Can we post photos?   If so, how?]]></description>
<pubDate>Fri, 25 Nov 2011 16:14:53 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=25</link>
<title>Topic &quot;Tripod alternatives&quot; a message from Larry</title>
<description><![CDATA[A handy tripod alternative that is new is HandlePod. It is a rotating camera mount fixed to a comfortable handle that you can hold against any solid object for tripod-like stability. You can also attach it to supports with the supplied elastic cord. It has many other uses that you can see at <a href="http://www.handlepod.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">www.handlepod.com</a>.]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 15 Sep 2011 20:45:47 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=15</link>
<title>Topic &quot;Blury pictures and shutter speeds&quot; a message from Pete4750</title>
<description><![CDATA[Another useful rule of thumb.<br/><br/>Thanks.]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 22:22:46 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>Topic &quot;Tripod alternatives&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[<strong>Pete4750</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote>Now you tell me!  I just bought an expensive tripod because my sturdy (Tiltall  - remember those?) is too bulky to carry around.  We'll see how the monopod does on the next expedition but keep the SteadePod in mind.<br/><br/>Never enough of the right kind of gadgets....</div><br/><br/>Well, I'm sure you'll get good use of your new tripod!  A sturdy tripod is always best, but not always practical. As carpenters say, "the right tool for the job"!<br/> <br/>bert]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 21:57:28 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=30</link>
<title>Topic &quot;Depth of Field&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[&lt;&lt;What focal length to use with camera when the camera is a something like the Rebel, which has the smaller than 'normal' sensor and for which the effective focal length is 1.6x the stated focal length on the lens?&gt;&gt;<br/>A given lens on a APS (smaller) sensor (like the Rebel) or on a full-frame sensor will have the same focal length, thus the same depth of field -- but there's more to it! Given the smaller sensor size on the Rebel, less of the image will be captured, thus, its as if you had a longer (by 1.6) focal length. The smaller-sensor camera has to be further from the subject to capture the same image size as a fulll-frame camera would with the same lens, so given the greater camera-to-subject distance, the depth of field will be greater. Since the focus distance is critical in depth of field, the smaller-sensor camera <i>appears</i> to have greater depth of field.<br/> <br/>&lt;&lt;How do you suggest the DOF calculator be used with a zoom lens?&gt;&gt;<br/>I don't!  There is no depth of field calculator that you can use in the field effectively - with a prime or zoom. The BEST way to understand depth of field is to take lots of images and review your images and settings afterwards. If you understand the basics of DOF (how camera-to-subject distance, focal length and aperture affect DOF), you will gradually understand the best settings to use when taking pictures. <br/>Zoom lenses definately complicate DOF - if you learn and understand the basics of DOF, you will quickly become proficient at selecting the correct apertures when shooting, regardless of the lens you're using.<br/>bert]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 21:54:13 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=13</link>
<title>Topic &quot;What f-stop to use for the sharpest pictures&quot; a message from Pete4750</title>
<description><![CDATA[I like simple to remember rules of thumb like this.  Thanks.<br/><br/>Now, if I can just remember it....darned old age...]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 21:37:25 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=25</link>
<title>Topic &quot;Tripod alternatives&quot; a message from Pete4750</title>
<description><![CDATA[Now you tell me!  I just bought an expensive tripod because my sturdy (Tiltall  - remember those?) is too bulky to carry around.  We'll see how the monopod does on the next expedition but keep the SteadePod in mind.<br/><br/>Never enough of the right kind of gadgets....]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 21:34:41 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=30</link>
<title>Topic &quot;Depth of Field&quot; a message from Pete4750</title>
<description><![CDATA[Bert, just one question. Maybe two.<br/><br/>What focal length to use with camera when the camera is a something like the Rebel, which has the smaller than 'normal' sensor and for which the effective focal length is 1.6x the stated focal length on the lens?<br/><br/>How do you suggest the DOF calculator be used with a zoom lens?<br/><br/>I'm doing mostly landscape photography and the biggest problem I'm having is with unsharp pictures due to DOF issues, so this is a subject I want to master.<br/><br/>Thanks.]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 19:58:21 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=40</link>
<title>Topic &quot;Is image stabilizer in Canon IS lens working?&quot; a message from Pete4750</title>
<description><![CDATA[I put it on a tripod to hold the body steady, then did as you said. I guess the trick is in the 'subtleness' of the movement. At first I was wiggling it too vigorously and I didn't see any effect from the IS. But then, realizing it isn't designed to cancel out large movements, I used the type of movement the camera is likely to experience when I'm hand-holding and trying to be steady. Those subtle movements did get noticeably reduced with the IS engaged.<br/><br/>Thanks; I feel better about the investment I made, knowing the feature is working as it should. <br/><br/>I still don't quite understand how it works; I can't hear anything from the IS - obviously not a motor at work in there - is it more like a gyroscope?  It's okay if you tell me that's beyond the scope of this forum.<br/><br/><strong>Bert Sirkin</strong> wrote:<br/><div class=quote><br/>The easiest way to test it is to shut off the IS and focus on something close. While holding the shutter half-way, wiggle the tip of the lens up and down, holding the body relatively steady - the up/down movement should be very subtle. You should see obvious motion thru the viewfinder. <br/><br/>Then turn the IS on and do the same thing - there should be significantly less movement.<br/><br/>IS can help with slow shutter speeds, but don't expect it to be a "cure" for blurry pictures.<br/><br/>bert</div>]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 17:43:31 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>Topic &quot;Is image stabilizer in Canon IS lens working?&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[IS does use power from the battery, but typically only uses battery power when the shutter is pressed half-way.  <br/><br/>The easiest way to test it is to shut off the IS and focus on something close. While holding the shutter half-way, wiggle the tip of the lens up and down, holding the body relatively steady - the up/down movement should be very subtle. You should see obvious motion thru the viewfinder. <br/><br/>Then turn the IS on and do the same thing - there should be significantly less movement.<br/><br/>IS can help with slow shutter speeds, but don't expecct it to be a "cure" for blury pictures.<br/><br/>Let me know how you do!<br/><br/>bert]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 11 Sep 2011 20:53:28 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>Topic &quot;Is image stabilizer in Canon IS lens working?&quot; a message from Pete4750</title>
<description><![CDATA[I'm gradually upgrading my Canon Rebel system as I go along and bought an IS lens to help with hand-held and slow-shutter situations.  I don't notice any difference in operation between IS on & IS off, so can't tell if it's working.  I'd certainly want to get it fixed if it's not (I waited too long and now it's out of warranty).  What can I do other than pay a repair shop to check it out?<br/><br/>Also, does this feature draw on the battery power?  I'm not sure how it works exactly.<br/><br/>Thanks.]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 11 Sep 2011 11:32:07 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.photobertforum.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=39</link>
<title>Topic &quot;Improve your landscape images!&quot; a message from admin</title>
<description><![CDATA[There is one very simple concept that you can use to help improve your landscape images. It’s called “Isolation”. It’s where you use composition to isolate your subject and/or to evoke strong emotions. When you isolate your subject, you don’t leave any question in the viewer’s eyes as to what your subject is, making for a more pleasing image. <br/>You can isolate your subject in several ways: <br/><br/>1) Light Contrast <br/>You can use light and dark to highlight your subject. This means that either your subject will be well lit and the background will be in shadow or your subject will be in shadow and the background will be well lit (silhouette). <br/><br/>2) Color <br/>Contrasting color can evoke strong emotions in an image. Placing your subject on a background of a contrasting color – i.e., warm tones on cold tones or visa versa – can provide an emotional “kick”. This can be easy close to sunrise or sunset. Place your warmly lit subject on a background of a cool shadow and you have instant emotion! <br/><br/>3) Focus <br/>You can easily use focus to isolate your subject if you understand the concept of “depth of field” and how to manipulate it. Longer focal length lenses and larger apertures help reduce depth of field. When shooting a small object (flower, etc.), you can easily improve your image by selecting the appropriate focal length and aperture so only your subject is in focus. This clearly isolates your subject and can make for a much more pleasing image. <br/><br/>4) Get close <br/>Sometimes it makes sense to just take PART of your subject. In the case of a person, consider a head-and-shoulders portrait rather than the full body. When shooting flowers, consider just part of the flower, rather than showing the whole flower, which, frankly, can sometimes be boring, no matter how pretty the flower. <br/><br/>See the attached images for examples.<br/><em>edited by admin on 1/31/2011</em>]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jan 2011 11:03:46 GMT</pubDate>
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